Questions and Answers
    MORE INFO!!

Some of the Many Questions Buyers Have:

--actual questions from the Yahoo Answers site, answered by CAR FU--

 
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1)  How do car salesmen trick you into buying a car?

2)  Do you think carfax is enough when buying a used car or do I have to take it to a mechanic?

3)  How much should i offer to buy this used car for?

4)  What kind of car should I get, 2010 volkswagen gti or 2010 chevy camaro?

5)  Is it possible to get a $22,000 car loan with a credit score of 663?

6)  Is a used Infiniti Fx35 a good car for a teenage boy?

7)  How much would insurance cost for a Chevy Silverado?

8)  What kind of car should I get?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

1) How do car salesmen trick you into buying a car? Everyone always says a used car salesman will try to make you buy something you don't want or charge you way too much. What are some of their sneaky tricks and how do I avoid falling for them?

It isn't tricks (usually), it is just leverage. They have leverage if you aren't sure of what you are doing and the have supreme leverage when you are sitting down in the dealership.

They have the leverage of time. YOUR time, not theirs.

In a business negotiation, there are different advantages each side might have, but one of them is NEVER that one party has to go feed the kids. Or live their life.

They are at work and you are on your day off. The longer you stay the less likely you are to want to look at any other car. After all, how many times can you go through this? They'll just move in $100 increments and wear you down until you give up.

First, make sure you are looking at your dream car according to your budget. You don't want to do this more than once. Go to http://www.nadaguides.com/ click on "Specs, Photos, Reviews & Safety" under used cars and enter your zip code. Get the value of the car and see if is close to the asking price (within $1000 if asking 10K, $2000 for $20k, etc.). If not, move on.

Get your financing lined up (or at least an interest rate quote--without this you WILL lose) by talking to a credit union.

All of this will take you about two hours, including the trip to the credit union.

If everything looks good, call them up and talk to the internet sales-person. Tell them you want to buy that car today. Cut your NADA number by $750 and make an offer. If it works, ask them to have the car ready for a test drive. Line up an appointment with a mechanic...

Don't think of controlling another person, or even the deal. You are just controlling your time and your money. Tell them you are busy but that you will buy the car if it checks out.

Then, buy the car if it checks out!

That is a pretty good start.

 

 

2) Do you think carfax is enough when buying a used car or do I have to take it to a mechanic?

Use autocheck(.com) as you do your research on your cars. Less expensive, more info. Also provides a numerical value to the vehicle for comparison purposes. When you have finally narrowed your search to one, bring your autocheck with you and compare it to the carfax they will have there. Just cross-check to make sure they sync.

I suggest you schedule your trip to the mechanic before you leave the house. Just plan to stop there during your test drive. A mechanic will charge anywhere from $50-100 to put it up on a lift, but this is necessary. It's a very small amount of money considering the information these guys can provide, and considering the price of a mistake.

When you make your appointment with your dealer-contact, tell them you want the car ready to go, that you will be stopping at a mechanic shop, and that you want them to hand you a carfax when you get there.

Hopefully, you already decided on a price and you already have your own financing. If so, you can get in and out in an hour and 15! Good luck!

 

 

 

 

3)  How much should I offer to buy this used car for? I am interested in a used car. It is selling for an asking price of 9900.00.  I spoke with the dealer over the phone and he said the car is fine except for one thing. He said that the previous owner had a claim for 1000 dollars on the car for a fender bender type accident.
I know any kind of claim that comes up on a car will hurt the re-sale value. How much should I offer to buy this car? Im thinking I should offer 7000.00 but I feel that this may be too low ? What do you guys think?

Try this: Go to http://www.nadaguides.com/ click on "Specs, Photos, Reviews & Safety" under used cars and enter your zip code. Choose the make and get to your car.

These are the most accurate numbers outside of the dealer-only Manheim auction numbers.

If you saw this car in a place like cars.com or autotrader, and it is a legit dealer, it may well be within $1000 or so of his bottom line. I would offer $750 back of the NADA number if it makes sense compared to his asking price, and split the difference.

If he is really asking 9900 for a 7000 car, he is insulting you. If you offer 7000 on a 9900 car, you are insulting him!

Get some pics of the damage repair before leaving the house. I'm not sure about a "$1000 claim". If he is telling you up front about it, it means one of two things: either he is an honest man, or it is noticeable to the naked eye. Or both, I suppose. Ask him to send you a carfax. He pays for those by the month. If you want to know about the car, buy an autocheck (.com less expensive, more accurate) then compare the two. If the previous owner told him it was a $1000 fix, ask to see the repair bill. All the vehicle history will show is that an accident was reported.

Almost any tiny bit of body work can cost $1000, so it should NOT be visible. If you can see it, it will cost you to fix it. Again. If you can't see it, it will cost you if you trade it in. Any paint-meter will pick it up.

 

 

 

4) What kind of car should I get, 2010 volkswagen gti or 2010 chevy camaro? This is the toughest decision of my life so far, the gti has a way more better interior and is a quick little car believe me, ive test drove it. The camaro, well its the 2010 camaro what more do i need to say. I've test driven both, and love both the same, but I can't decide which one I should get......HELP!!!!!

The Camaro is cool, no doubt. But it WILL be far more expensive any way you slice it. Significantly lower gas mileage, significantly higher insurance premiums, and far more importantly, VWs depreciate very slowly. The Camaro? Not so much...

Sorry to post again, sometimes certain information can cost a lot of money.

A 2006 GTI retailed for 21450 and is worth an unheard-of 13,500 4 years later. One of the top two slowest depreciating brands out there (Lexus). Just a fact. The GTI gets better MPG than does the Camaro, even the 6-cyl., and the difference in insuring a Muscle car vs. a small hatchback? Well...which way do you think it goes?

All of that said, the Camaro is bad-***, the GTI is fun and more economical. Whichever one you buy, you should at least know how the money works out. Make sure the one you buy is the one you will love!

Good Luck,

Peter

Source(s):

CAR FU: Self-Defense for Car Buyers

http://www.car-fu.com

http://www.nadaguides.com/default.aspx?l=1&w=20&p=37&f=5725&s=279442&vt=used&m=1215&d=15797&y=2006

http://www.nadaguides.com/default.aspx?LI=1-20-2-5023-0-0-0&l=1&w=20&p=2&f=5022&c=15&av=3&rv=2&vt=new&s=308367&z=92029&m2=1215&d2=19400&c2=15&yt2=2010&vt2=New&s2=316112

 

 

 

5)  Is it possible to get a 22,000 car loan with a credit score of 663?  I could trade in my truck which is paid off for around 3500-2500. I make $45,000 and have been at the same job for one year. I feel like I will never qualify for a loan... I would like honesty. My husband also makes about the same. He just took out a car loan though, so I would rather not have him co-sign with me. Combined we make around 90,000 a year.

Credit scores have slid downward for the past few years and 663 is a solid score. The real question is: where did that score come from? Unless it is a FICO score and from the bureau that the lending institution uses, it is relatively meaningless. Assuming that it IS a FICO, check with your nearest credit union. They will offer the best rate and are very accustomed to granting car loans. Unless you already have another car loan or a large mortgage payment, 45k should easily qualify you for a $20000 loan. Don't forget about the incidental expenses like taxes and dealer fees. Your trade-in should wash you down to 20k, which at 6% is $386 x 60mos. or $330 over 72. Good luck and drive happy!

 

 

 

 

6) Is a used fx35 a good car for a teenage boy?  I'm 16 and I'm debating on whether to get a G35 or an FX35. I like the FX but I want to know if it looks like a mothers car.

Both of those cars are excellent choices. They are both beautiful, reliable and hold their value. If you often have friends in your car, you might prefer the larger dimensions of the FX. Unless you live in California-- where they are everywhere-- the G35 is a great car and an attention getter. You will be stylin' either way. Good luck and Drive Happy!

 

 

 

 

7)  How much would insurance cost for a silverado? New one 2010 im 18

It depends on many different things.
1) The State you live in
2) Your driving record.
3) Your age
4) The amount of coverage you want or need (if it is financed, you will need collision coverage for the duration of the loan)
5) 4-wheel drive vehicles sometimes require additional insurance

Go to the geiko site and get a quote. It will give you some good comparison info for shopping around.
If you use an insurance clearinghouse to get multiple quotes, you should open a new email account that you can abandon later. Otherwise, you might be plagued by solicitations forever. Hope this helped.

 

 

8) What kind of car should I get?

Hi Libby,

After determining your budget, you should only get a car you will LOVE every time you look at it. When it is in your driveway, you can't wait to drive it.

You should shop for cars that have concluded their initial depreciation. For domestic vehicles, this is often after the first year. For imports it usually takes 3-4 years.

At these points, the depreciation slows dramatically. It is hard to love a car when you know it is stealing your money!

Without knowing your budget or your lifestyle, consider a 3 year old Infiniti G35, a 3-4 year old Lexus I35, a 3-4 year old BMW 3-series. Make sure they are one-owner cars under 45000 miles.

These will come in under $22k. Under $20k? Check out Audi A4 or Mercedes C-Class.

Here is a search you might enjoy:

http://tinyurl.com/yb3jehw (resized from 769 characters..LOL)

Under 15k? Elantra /Sonata both drop hard the first year and then hold value. Mazda3 and 6 are in that range, though still have some depreciating to do. Great cars.

Wild Card? Dodge Charger.

 

 

 

 

1) How do car salesmen trick you into buying a car? Everyone always says a used car salesman will try to make you buy something you don't want or charge you way too much. What are some of their sneaky tricks and how do I avoid falling for them?

It isn't tricks (usually), it is just leverage. They have leverage if you don't know what you are doing and the have supreme leverage when you are sitting down in the dealership.

In a business negotiation, there are different advantages each side might have, but one of them is NEVER that one party has to go feed the kids. Or live their life.

They are at work and you are on your day off. The longer you stay the less likely you are to want to look at any other car. After all, how many times can you go through this? They'll just move in $100 increments and wear you down until you give up.

First, make sure you are looking at your dream car according to your budget. You don't want to do this more than once. Go to http://www.nadaguides.com/ click on "Specs, Photos, Reviews & Safety" under used cars and enter your zip code. Get the value of the car and see if is close to the asking price (within $1000 if asking 10K, $2000 for $20k, etc.). If not, move on.

Get your financing lined up (or at least an interest rate quote--without this you WILL lose) by talking to a credit union.

All of this will take you about two hours, including the trip to the credit union.

If everything looks good, call them up and talk to the internet sales-person. Tell them you want to buy that car today. Cut your NADA number by $750 and make an offer. If it works, ask them to have the car ready for a test drive. Line up an appointment with a mechanic...

Don't think of controlling another person, or even the deal. You are just controlling your time and your money. Tell them you are busy but that you will buy the car if it checks out.

Then, buy the car if it checks out!

That is a pretty good start.

 

 

2) Do you think carfax is enough when buying a used car or do I have to take it to a mechanic?

Use autocheck(.com) as you do your research on your cars. Less expensive, more info. Also provides a numerical value to the vehicle for comparison purposes. When you have finally narrowed your search to one, bring your autocheck with you and compare it to the carfax they will have there. Just cross-check to make sure they sync.

I suggest you schedule your trip to the mechanic before you leave the house. Just plan to stop there during your test drive. A mechanic will charge anywhere from $50-100 to put it up on a lift, but this is necessary. It's a very small amount of money considering the information these guys can provide, and considering the price of a mistake.

When you make your appointment with your dealer-contact, tell them you want the car ready to go, that you will be stopping at a mechanic shop, and that you want them to hand you a carfax when you get there.

Hopefully, you already decided on a price and you already have your own financing. If so, you can get in and out in an hour and 15! Good luck!

 

 

 

 

3)  How much should I offer to buy this used car for? I am interested in a used car. It is selling for an asking price of 9900.00.  I spoke with the dealer over the phone and he said the car is fine except for one thing. He said that the previous owner had a claim for 1000 dollars on the car for a fender bender type accident.
I know any kind of claim that comes up on a car will hurt the re-sale value. How much should I offer to buy this car? Im thinking I should offer 7000.00 but I feel that this may be too low ? What do you guys think?

Try this: Go to http://www.nadaguides.com/ click on "Specs, Photos, Reviews & Safety" under used cars and enter your zip code. Choose the make and get to your car.

These are the most accurate numbers outside of the dealer-only Manheim auction numbers.

If you saw this car in a place like cars.com or autotrader, and it is a legit dealer, it may well be within $1000 or so of his bottom line. I would offer $750 back of the NADA number if it makes sense compared to his asking price, and split the difference.

If he is really asking 9900 for a 7000 car, he is insulting you. If you offer 7000 on a 9900 car, you are insulting him!

Get some pics of the damage repair before leaving the house. I'm not sure about a "$1000 claim". If he is telling you up front about it, it means one of two things: either he is an honest man, or it is noticeable to the naked eye. Or both, I suppose. Ask him to send you a carfax. He pays for those by the month. If you want to know about the car, buy an autocheck (.com less expensive, more accurate) then compare the two. If the previous owner told him it was a $1000 fix, ask to see the repair bill. All the vehicle history will show is that an accident was reported.

Almost any tiny bit of body work can cost $1000, so it should NOT be visible. If you can see it, it will cost you to fix it. Again. If you can't see it, it will cost you if you trade it in. Any paint-meter will pick it up.

 

 

 

4) What kind of car should I get, 2010 volkswagen gti or 2010 chevy camaro? This is the toughest decision of my life so far, the gti has a way more better interior and is a quick little car believe me, ive test drove it. The camaro, well its the 2010 camaro what more do i need to say. I've test driven both, and love both the same, but I can't decide which one I should get......HELP!!!!!

The Camaro is cool, no doubt. But it WILL be far more expensive any way you slice it. Significantly lower gas mileage, significantly higher insurance premiums, and far more importantly, VWs depreciate very slowly. The Camaro? Not so much...

Sorry to post again, sometimes certain information can cost a lot of money.

A 2006 GTI retailed for 21450 and is worth an unheard-of 13,500 4 years later. One of the top two slowest depreciating brands out there (Lexus). Just a fact. The GTI gets better MPG than does the Camaro, even the 6-cyl., and the difference in insuring a Muscle car vs. a small hatchback? Well...which way do you think it goes?

All of that said, the Camaro is bad-***, the GTI is fun and more economical. Whichever one you buy, you should at least know how the money works out. Make sure the one you buy is the one you will love!

Good Luck,

Peter

Source(s):

CAR FU: Self-Defense for Car Buyers

http://www.car-fu.com

http://www.nadaguides.com/default.aspx?l=1&w=20&p=37&f=5725&s=279442&vt=used&m=1215&d=15797&y=2006

http://www.nadaguides.com/default.aspx?LI=1-20-2-5023-0-0-0&l=1&w=20&p=2&f=5022&c=15&av=3&rv=2&vt=new&s=308367&z=92029&m2=1215&d2=19400&c2=15&yt2=2010&vt2=New&s2=316112

 

 

 

5)  Is it possible to get a 22,000 car loan with a credit score of 663?  I could trade in my truck which is paid off for around 3500-2500. I make $45,000 and have been at the same job for one year. I feel like I will never qualify for a loan... I would like honesty. My husband also makes about the same. He just took out a car loan though, so I would rather not have him co-sign with me. Combined we make around 90,000 a year.

Credit scores have slid downward for the past few years and 663 is a solid score. The real question is: where did that score come from? Unless it is a FICO score and from the bureau that the lending institution uses, it is relatively meaningless. Assuming that it IS a FICO, check with your nearest credit union. They will offer the best rate and are very accustomed to granting car loans. Unless you already have another car loan or a large mortgage payment, 45k should easily qualify you for a $20000 loan. Don't forget about the incidental expenses like taxes and dealer fees. Your trade-in should wash you down to 20k, which at 6% is $386 x 60mos. or $330 over 72. Good luck and drive happy!

 

 

 

 

6) Is a used fx35 a good car for a teenage boy?  I'm 16 and I'm debating on whether to get a G35 or an FX35. I like the FX but I want to know if it looks like a mothers car.

Both of those cars are excellent choices. They are both beautiful, reliable and hold their value. If you often have friends in your car, you might prefer the larger dimensions of the FX. Unless you live in California-- where they are everywhere-- the G35 is a great car and an attention getter. You will be stylin' either way. Good luck and Drive Happy!

 

 

 

 

7)  How much would insurance cost for a silverado? New one 2010 im 18

It depends on many different things.
1) The State you live in
2) Your driving record.
3) Your age
4) The amount of coverage you want or need (if it is financed, you will need collision coverage for the duration of the loan)
5) 4-wheel drive vehicles sometimes require additional insurance

Go to the geiko site and get a quote. It will give you some good comparison info for shopping around.
If you use an insurance clearinghouse to get multiple quotes, you should open a new email account that you can abandon later. Otherwise, you might be plagued by solicitations forever. Hope this helped.

 

 

8) What kind of car should I get?

Hi Libby,

After determining your budget, you should only get a car you will LOVE every time you look at it. When it is in your driveway, you can't wait to drive it.

You should shop for cars that have concluded their initial depreciation. For domestic vehicles, this is often after the first year. For imports it usually takes 3-4 years.

At these points, the depreciation slows dramatically. It is hard to love a car when you know it is stealing your money!

Without knowing your budget or your lifestyle, consider a 3 year old Infiniti G35, a 3-4 year old Lexus I35, a 3-4 year old BMW 3-series. Make sure they are one-owner cars under 45000 miles.

These will come in under $22k. Under $20k? Check out Audi A4 or Mercedes C-Class.

Here is a search you might enjoy:

http://tinyurl.com/yb3jehw (resized from 769 characters..LOL)

Under 15k? Elantra /Sonata both drop hard the first year and then hold value. Mazda3 and 6 are in that range, though still have some depreciating to do. Great cars.

Wild Card? Dodge Charger.